Every season, the major players of the fashion world bring in new silhouettes, cuts and materials condemning anyone who would dare to wear anything else. Thankfully, life is much simpler in the world of classic menswear.
The guidelines are more defined here than typically fickle fashion rules. You have your base - a suit, a shirt, a pair of shoes - and you go from there. And although the difference between a suit from a century ago and it’s present contemporary version might not be that obvious, the devil is in the detail.
Three-Roll-Two Jacket
The tendency as of late is an interesting version of a three-button jacket where only the middle button is fastened. The front construction of the jacket is quite unusual, with lapels pressed to roll to the middle button and the top one being hidden inside the lapel roll. The style is called a Three-Roll-Two jacket and although it’s trending at the moment, it appeared in mens formal wear more than 100 years ago.
Legend has it that in the beginning of the twentieth century young American university students decided to turn their old-fashioned three-button jackets into two-button versions, in accordance with a current trend. They pressed the lapels of their jackets in such way that the top button was hidden underneath the newly made lapel roll – and voila!, a new style had begun.
Nicholas Jermyn Styling Tips
Discover your inner Italian!
For those who love something different, but still want to stay within the borders of classic menswear, the Three-Roll-Two style is definitely a great alternative to a standard two-button jacket. It might even be considered a dressier option as it is more appropriate with a formal shirt than a t-shirt.
This style is favoured by many trendsetters of the menswear world, particularly form Italy. If you really want to stand out from the crowd, add a pinch of sprezzatura by wearing your Three-Roll-Two jacket with a pair of flannel trousers, a quality cotton or linen shirt, a simple cardigan and a pair of double strap monk shoes. Don’t be afraid to embrace your inner Italian!
Pleated Trousers
Gone are the days when pleated trousers were considered a “grandad style; now they’re experiencing a sartorial renaissance. The elegant silhouette, the volume, the comfort – this is what we appreciate in a classic trouser after a two-decade reign of the skinny pant.
Pleated trousers have a long history. Appearing in the 1920’s, the style became widely popular for its elegant lines and a full silhouette. During WWII however, it fell out of favour due to a fabric shortage – it was simply cheaper to make the flat front trousers. Soon after the war, pleated trousers quickly regained its popularity and become a go-to style throughout the late 40’s, 50’s and then again - in the late 70’s and 80’s.
Nicholas Jermyn Styling Tips
The main counter-argument in the discussion about pleated trousers is that they’re unflattering, shapeless and baggy. We say, they really don’t have to be! The same good old sartorial rule applies here – fit is king.
“Pleated” doesn’t mean “wide”
Provided you are going for a quality make (and we hope you are), having pleats would mean more comfort around your hips and thighs without making you look huge. If you found a pair of good Ready-to-Wear pleated trousers that fit you well, but seem to be a bit too wide, just visit a respectable alteration place and ask to taper the leg from the knee down. And if you’re a Made-to-Measure kind of guy, simply discuss the requirements with your tailor.
Cutaway Collar Shirt
Strictly speaking, the cutaway collar is not a new trend in classic menswear – it’s been well loved for years. But it feels like it’s now finally being perceived as a normal shirt collar style in any gentleman’s wardrobe and not as a ticket to some secret dandy club.
With that said, despite its 1930s British origin, this style is seen as more contemporary and even more sophisticated than, say, a classic spread collar.
Alas, standard formal attire doesn’t give you many options for expressing yourself – but the cutaway collar is something that would add a pinch of subtle elegance to an otherwise simple business outfit.
Nicholas Jermyn Styling Tips
In terms of the look, it’s quite easy to recognise this style – the cutaway, most probably, is going to be the widest collar option in a shirt collection. A shirt with this collar is definitely going to be noticeable. So in order to make it look right, it might be useful to keep a couple of things in mind.
Be thoughtful about the tie knot
It’s all about proportions. The cutaway collar is quite large, so, in order to balance things up, combine it with a larger tie knot. The first formal knot style that comes to mind is a Windsor. But at Nicholas Jermyn, we recommend using a Double-Four-In-Hand instead – this knot adds a modern touch to the look without making the neck area look too “heavy”.
The right collar for the right face
The cutaway collar frames the face in a more particular way than most other collars. This style would look better on someone with a narrower or longer face.
Image credits / thebespokedudes.com, hespokestyle.com, parisiangentleman.co.uk, permanentstyle.com